Has your laptop ever started to sound like a vacuum cleaner?
Cooling fans start spinning like crazy. If things get bad enough, your CPU can even overheat, halting the laptop and giving you a scary-looking error message.
To avoid such mayhem, you should dust inside your laptop twice a year.
It’s pretty easy. Should your laptop be REALLY clogged up inside, you may need to get a little crazy and start opening things up.
But don’t panic! YouTube will save you…
We all know what happens when your puter gets all dusty inside: it gets noisy!
Cooling fans start spinning like crazy. If things get bad enough, your CPU can even overheat, halting the system.
To avoid this mayhem, you should dust inside your computer twice a year.
But what to use? Dishwasher? Washing machine? Garden hose? Hydrochloric acid?
It’s time for something completely different!
I’ve wondered for awhile why oscillating multi-tools don’t cut skin.
I know there are many explanations out there, but it appears that many people were in the same boat: We kind of understand, but not really…
Well, that simply won’t do!
Behold the two reasons why these power tools don’t (easily) cut you!
I’m not a big fan of WiFi, but I do use it from time to time.
It’s just convenient to use for some gizmos where an ethernet dongle is not supported.
Trouble is, I kept forgetting to turn off my WiFi router when I was done.
And then – two days later – I would discover I was still bombarding myself with magic 5 GHz death rays.
Not any more!!
Much ado has been made about certain brands and types of puter displays and how this kind or that kind looks so much better than the average LCD screen…
It turns out that much of this hoopla is quite often mostly just marketing.
In fact, some displays from certain fruity computer manufacturers in the past were actually technically inferior, yet they still looked really good!
How did they do it?
Easy! The displays were fine-tuned – calibrated, if you will.
Lucky for you, it’s a piece of cake to calibrate your puter’s display yourself.
Now, I know that everyone is pretty attached to their favorite stripper.
The trouble is, sometimes this attachment is not terribly healthy…
I’m talking about wire and cable strippers, of course!
After decades of searching – across scorching deserts and over frosty mountaintops – I have come to the conclusion that these strippers really are the best.
9 months ago, I made this video: Make your own stylish smartphone Faraday Box in 10 minutes
Since then, I’ve learned a ton more about Faraday cages, and experimented a lot to make an even BETTER box.
It turns out that my original box was only so-so at blocking Bluetooth. My original testing of Bluetooth blocking was, shall we say, not very thorough. My primary focus was blocking cell network signals.
I also mistakenly assumed that if Bluetooth was blocked, WiFi at 2.4 GHz would also be blocked. Nope! WiFi is much harder to block due to the higher signal strength (among other things).
To make matters worse, contrary to popular belief, we’re still learning about how Faraday cages actually work!
And so, I give you: Stylish Smartphone Faraday Box: Mark II
If you’ve ever accidentally chopped through a wire or electrical cable, you know how much fun it can be to try to repair it so that it stays waterproof, dust proof, weatherproof, etc.
I recently had just such a fun experience myself. It turns out that there are quite a few nice products out there to make the splicing process WAAAAY easier.
Keep in mind that the type of splice you use depends greatly on the application – and even the type of wire (solid vs stranded).
A wire splice for an automotive-type application must be pretty strong, because vibration is obviously an issue.
An underground electrical cable doesn’t have to withstand vibration, but it definitely needs to be waterproof!
If you have a fuel or water tank that is either metal or colored plastic, you may have run into the same problem I had: How do you know when it’s empty?
Mechanical level gauges are nice, but not always practical or even possible. So, I went on the hunt for an ultrasonic level sensor for my fuel tank.
Alas, what’s available on the market is too expensive, not very reliable, and often goofy in terms of features. So I decided to build my own!
This ultrasound fuel gauge can be built for around $33 using a breadboard, Arduino Uno, and one of 2 different ultrasonic transceiver modules designed for use with Arduino or Raspberry Pi boards.
There are many ways to trace a bunch of wires from point A to point B. Most of them kinda suck for one reason or another.
Enter the Voltcraft LZG-1 / Extech CT40!
With this gizmo, you can trace up to 16 wires at once. The system uses a remote unit with 17 alligator clips (16 + one for the common/return conductor).
The remote unit sends a 5V pulse width modulated “square” wave to the main unit. Clip 1 is a ~52% duty cycle wave, and Clip 16 is about 98% duty cycle – at 32 Hz. This allows the main unit to distinguish between each wire reliably – as long as the resistance of each wire is less than 30kohms (which is pretty high).
The main unit also doubles as a DMM. Although it’s not the greatest digitial multimeter, it’s good enough for most applications.