What’s going on here?
Well, it turns out that even if the current rating of the switch has NOT been exceeded, you may have a problem related to inrush current due to the use of fluorescent and especially LED light fixtures…
Without further ado:
Finally, note that many switches have current ratings in “AX” instead of just “A“.
As in: 10AX instead of 10A
The X means reactive, so AX means Amps Reactive. Long story short:
- A 10A switch is good for 10 amps of resistive lighting (incandescent) or 5A of fluorescent/LED lighting
- A 10AX switch is good for 10 amps of either incandescent or fluo/LED lights
In other words, divide the current rating in half if there’s no “X”. As I noted in the video, even then you may still need a beefier switch due to the poor design of certain LED drivers or electronic ballasts in fluorescent light fixtures!