To provide the best experiences, we and our partners use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us and our partners to process personal data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site and show (non-) personalized ads. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
Click below to consent to the above or make granular choices. Your choices will be applied to this site only. You can change your settings at any time, including withdrawing your consent, by using the toggles on the Cookie Policy, or by clicking on the manage consent button at the bottom of the screen.
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
Thanks Scottie.
And what about tea kettle that you can chose your temperature like 80C, 85C, 90C and so on.
Do they have many kind of switches or many kinds of metals?
Probably a variable “off switch”, like in an old-fashioned thermostat. But, I’ve never even seen a kettle like that before!
My kettle did not turn off, now it won’t work as the water boiled completely out.
How can I repair it?
You probably have to take it apart and replace the bimetallic strip – assuming you can even figure out exactly which one to get and where to get it!
Thanks Scottie,
I used my automatic kettle for years at sea level where I bought it. it switched off at just the right time about 10 seconds after the water boiled, which of course was at 212 deg f. it never switched off too early – it always waited until after the water was boiling.
Now I use the same kettle in Denver at 5000 ft altitude where boiling point is about 202 deg f. Yet the kettle still switches of when the water boils (although I have noticed it takes longer to switch off). Since liquid water can’t heat beyond boiling point, how does the same kettle switch of at 202 deg f?
Thanks
Aha! Interesting question. The kettle I use (a little bit above sea level) turns off right after boiling occurs. If the same kettle is used at high altitude, the pressure is lower so the boiling temp is also lower as you noted.
So, one might figure then that the kettle is turning off at the same temp, but will boil a bit longer as the temp rises in the base where the bimetallic strip is usually located. Even though the water is boiling, it will still absorb heat until the water is all boiled away as water vapor… and then the kettle will probably melt or catch on fire. 🙂
Also, the bimetallic strip probably isn’t designed to turn off at boiling temperature at sea level, but a different (lower) temp since the strip is in the base of the kettle underneath the heating element. In other words, the strip is not “detecting” the temp of the water, but rather the temp in the base of the kettle. That’s my guess, anyway!
I suspect that the primary thing carrying the heat to the bimetallic strip is water vapor. When the concentration of heated vapor heats the strip to the point where on side of the strip expands, the strip bends. I’ll bet that that trip temperature of the strip is slightly below 200F. It doesn’t get heated enough until the air surrounding it is full of hot vapor.
We have a kettle that lost the metal screen over the pour spout. It won’t trip at all without the screen, but if we cover the pour spout opening with tin foil, it does. This leads me to suspect that the shut-off mechanism relies on the heated vapor being contained. So, no matter what temperature the liquid is when it boils (as long as it boils at the strip’s tripping temperature,) the strip will bend when it’s heated enough.
That is exactly right. What triggers the switch, is not the temperature of the base, but the steam from the boiling water, reaching it through a steam tube. This ensures that it will always switch off when the water is boiling, regardless of boiling temperature (varying altitude). That’s also why it won’t shut off, if the lid is not properly closed, since the steam just goes out, instead of down the steam tube. 🙂
No steam tube in my electric kettle…
Hi! I’m doing an engineering project and am just wondering if there are standard metals that are used in bimetallic strips (eg aluminium and zinc have two different melting points) or if it is up to each producer to find the two metal that work best for them? Thanks!
I think they usually use steel and copper, or steel and brass. I guess there are probably other options, but probably it would need to be a combination of a strong metal and a weaker one such that the strip will bend due to the difference between them, but at the same time not break, crack, etc.
Does the steam tube ever fill up with condensed water?.If so will it have to heat the water to stem temp?
Great video thanks!
Is there a way to purchase just the strip so I can replace my non working one?
Not that I know of. They’re usually pretty specific to each kettle.